The third-floor restaurant in Glover Park serves possibly the best Indian cooking in the area, outside of home kitchen. Tandoori chicken is slathered in yogurt, seasoned with saffron and grilled to succulence in a clay oven. Lamb vindaloo resonates with peppery heat and vinegary tang, while black lentils cooked in cream raises those legumes to glorious hew heights. The bread—some whispering of mint, other stuffed with sautéed onions or minced lamb—come to the table warm and wonderful. And vegetarians are welcomed with such pleasures as okra blended with tomatoes, onion and mango powder and a luscious mush of sesame sauced baby eggplant. Heritage India also offers a modesty attractive space, decorated with prints dating from the days of Raj and seductive with the aromas of curry and smoke. Unfortunately, the service complaints I’ve collected over its short life outnumber the curries on the menu. I, too, can vouch for sullen greetings at the door, pitches to order more food than I want, and long lags between courses—followed, surprisingly, by a flurry of activity as waiters swoop in and ceremoniously apportion food for each diner at the table. But when my heart is set on eye-catching, palate pleasing Indian cooking, I go prepared to put up with some indifference on the part of the staff.